Once the jewel in the Red Sea crown, Sudan has suffered in recent years from the sad effects of an ongoing war. Sudan's coastal and offshore reefs have fascinated the diving world for decades due to the work of such undersea explorers as Jacques Cousteau and Jack Jackson. It would probably be the most popular dive destination in the Middle East if the country?s minimal infrastructure and political instability hadn?t made it one of the most difficult parts of the Red Sea region to visit. There are now a number of dive operators running both landbased and liveaboard based holidays in the area and it is beginning to open up to divers quite fast. Things are changing. Fundamentalist no longer dominate Sudan, visas are easier to get, food shops are filling up and you can even find a Hilton Hotel in Port Sudan. Although there are still difficulties in getting there, it is well ? very well ? worth the effort and our advice is to visit as soon as possible before the reefs get as crowded as those further north.
Sudan is the largest country in Africa with 28 million people and its coast stretches out for 400 miles. This is big fish country. The difference here is that you can not only see a profusion of sharks, but you will see them surrounded by the beautiful soft corals of the area. You can retrace the fin strokes and explore the remains of Jacques Cousteau?s legendary Conshelf II underwater living environment. The reef that Jacques Cousteau carefully selected for this extraordinary purpose is Shaab Rumi, which is an oval reef lagoon about 43 miles north of Port Sudan. The diving is simply extraordinary.
Most flights arrive in Port Sudan via Egypt. Visas for EU residents are available on arrival by pre-arrangement but cost US $210 - in cash. That includes diving taxes, and taxes in and out of Port Sudan. The live aboard agent retains your passport while you are at sea. Passport-holders with evidence of visits to Israel are disqualified from entry. You also need two entry visas for Egypt (US $15 each in cash). Keep three to four clear pages in your passport for stamps! Sudan, including its airline, is an alcohol-free area. However, live aboards usually have a limited amount of beer etc available. Sudan is a massive country subject in some parts to yellow fever. Because of this, your entry into Egypt will be subject to a health official insisting that you visibly commence a course of antibiotics supplied on re-entry to Egypt - even though the Sudanese officials will give you a certificate to say that you have not visited a risk area, and regardless of whether you have an International Certificate of Vaccination. There are no mosquitoes at sea fortunately, but Port Sudan is a malaria area, so cover up when you pass through it at night, and use lots of insect repellent. Check this information again with your tour operator, the FCO and your doctor. Away from the hotel and the boat, there are security risks. This is a very poor country. Use caution and common sense.
